Bosnia – Herzegovina what to see: places to visit and not to miss the first time you go there

One of the most beautiful and exciting countries to visit in the Balkans is certainly Bosnia and Herzegovina .

Despite the enormous popularity of neighboring Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina is a destination that has remained relatively unexplored and off the beaten track, and therefore also less touristy than neighboring countries.

Bosnia is less than an hour’s drive from popular locations such as Dubrovnik, Croatia, and Kotor, Montenegro. Happy location for those who want to treat themselves to a trip a stone’s throw from the sea among lush hills, centuries-old ruins, historic cities and wonderful waterfalls.

If this isn’t enough to entice you to explore Bosnia, you’ll be happy to know that it’s also incredibly cheap , more or less like Albania, another good reason to decide to treat yourself to an adventure in these parts.

If the most famous cities in Bosnia are Sarajevo and Mostar , in Bosnia and Herzegovina you will find many other places to visit that will keep you busy. I have put together for you the list of the best places to visit in Bosnia and Herzegovina, which I hope will inspire you to travel to this amazing country.

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Read also: Bosnia and Herzegovina travel tips: The most beautiful travel destinations and helpful information

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• Trebinje in Bosnia: The most beautiful sights & our tips

What to see in Bosnia – The 13 places to visit and not to miss

Bosnia and Herzegovina is a huge country with many places to visit. You might spend a couple of weeks on it and feel like you haven’t seen everything. I have selected the places that I recommend you see in Bosnia the first time you go and that I advise you not to miss.

If you intend to end your holiday in Bosnia by the sea, I recommend ending in Mostar which is located a short distance from Dubrovnik in Croatia.

Sarajevo

Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina , is a city rich in history and culture. Although its name immediately brings to mind war and siege, today’s Sarajevo is a city where tourism is growing rapidly for a simple reason: it is beautiful and knows how to entertain.

Sarajevo is set in a long, thin valley and surrounded on all sides by forested mountains visible from every angle, it is no coincidence that during the siege those beautiful mountains were places where Serbian snipers were stationed.

Start your visit to Sarejevo from Baščaršija , the Old Town bazaar, which has an Ottoman and ancient atmosphere, which is the perfect place to get a feel for the city. The places to see in Sarajevo are concentrated in the center or are easily accessible from here, which is also quite small and easy to visit on foot.

Also make sure you reach one of the most evocative panoramic points of Sarajevo, easily accessible by cable car which, from the station just a stone’s throw away in Baščaršija, takes you up to Mount Trebević , one of the peaks that hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics.

I recommend you dedicate a couple of days to Sarajevo, and to find out in detail what to do I recommend reading the post What to see in Sarajevo – Tips for visiting the capital of Bosnia – Herzegovina

TIP FOR VISITING SARAJEVO
If you have little time and want to visit the best of the city I recommend you book the free walking tour of Sarajevo and then the war tour of Sarajevo and its surroundings (including the bobsleigh track and the war tunnel).

Sarajevo tunnel

When Sarajevo fell under siege by Serbian forces in 1992, entering, or leaving, the city was virtually impossible. The only lifeline was the airport, the use of which had been negotiated by the United Nations with the Serbs to deliver humanitarian aid.

The airport bordered the free Bosnian territory. To reach it, however, it was necessary to cross the landing strip, which was extremely risky because you were not protected from sniper fire.

The Bosnian army then decided to dig a tunnel under the airport which would connect the neighborhood of Dobrinja, on the city side of the airport, with the suburb of Butmir , on the other side, from where it was possible to access the free Bosnian territory.

The names of the two suburbs also gave the tunnel its “official” name: Tunel DB .

On the Butmir side, the tunnel exit was located at the house of the Kolar family, who now run the museum, and whose male members of military age were in the Bosnian army at the time.

The tunnel project, 800 meters long and one and a half meters wide and high, took 3 months of work, around the clock, to complete in the summer of 1993. This project proved to be vital for Sarajevo in the two years subsequent ones. Citizens were able to receive increased food supplies, and the city’s defenders access to military supplies.

After the war the tunnel was abandoned and after a while it collapsed.

On the Butmir side, however, the Kolar family decided to preserve a short section of the tunnel and build a museum around it, in memory of the incredible feat and the very important role for the population of Sarejevo.

The tunnel is located just outside Sarajevo and can be easily reached by car or with a tour like this one .

The bobsleigh track of the 1984 Winter Olympics

In 1984 Sarajevo hosted the Winter Olympic Games and the bobsleigh track, 1300 meters long and with 12 curves, was the protagonist of this event.

The track was reused for World Cup competitions in the years following the Winter Games. It seemed that the future of the destination as a winter sports park would not be stopped but would instead become increasingly popular.

However, when the war in Yugoslavia began in 1991 , the track, like the rest of the country, remained involved in the fighting. The curves of the track were used as defensive positions by the Bosnian forces and the entire track was filled with bullet holes, becoming a real battlefield.

Today the track is a favorite place for local street art artists, who have decorated entire areas of the route.
It is currently being rebuilt for future bobsleigh competitions, but official guided tours are still available.

Things to know before you go
Don’t wander around this area alone or without a local who knows it perfectly; there are still many unexploded mines scattered across the hill.

It is not recommended to venture off the established paths.

Alternatively, there are tours that cater to those who don’t want to walk or local buses that go three-quarters of the way. You can also hire a taxi and the driver can act as your tour guide for the trip, just be patient and negotiate the price before getting in.

Mostar

Mostar is probably the best-known city in Bosnia-Herzegovina and one of the most beautiful in the Balkans.
Mostar, like Sarajevo, was also the scene of a cruel war and its famous bridge, built in the 16th century, was destroyed on 9 November 1993.

The Ponte Vecchio, now rebuilt exactly as it was before the collapse, together with the adjacent area – its beautiful historic center – became part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005 .

Although most tourists visit Mostar as one of the day trips to Dubrovnik, it is also worth spending a few days here to be able to visit the surroundings of Herzegovina.

Blagaj

Not far from Mostar, there is Blagaj, a town known for the source of the Buna river, which flows directly from the rocks, and for the dervish monastery (tekke) built in 1520.

Both are located next to each other, making for a very photogenic spot, especially if you are across the river from the monastery.

If you want you can visit the interior of the Dervish monastery where you can admire Ottoman and dervish remains.
If you visit Bosnia and Herzegovina in the summer when it is very hot, remember that you will find cool refreshment along the river.

Kravice Falls

Kravice waterfall is a beautiful natural place located near Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and easy to visit in a day by combining it with Baglaj.

Kravice Nature Park , one of the largest waterfalls in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and is a popular tourist destination thanks to its incredible waterfall, over 25 meters high.

It seems that the Kravica waterfall originated millions of years ago and was formed following the tectonic movement and upheaval of the limestone plateau on which the Trebizat flows, the river that feeds the waterfalls where you can swim or rent a boat and relax.

Kravice Nature Park is open every day from 7am to 10pm in the summer months and from 7am to 7pm in the winter months.
The entrance ticket costs 20.00 KM

The park offers visitors a number of facilities, including car parks, a small train (for a fee) to reach the waterfall from the car park or return, toilets, changing rooms, restaurants and bars.

The parking lot is elevated and located on a plateau approximately 50-100 meters above the base of the waterfall. After purchasing the ticket, you can reach the waterfall on foot or by train.

If you want to get there on foot you will find several walking routes that lead to the waterfall. The routes vary in difficulty. I advise you to arrive on foot, to be able to make stops at the viewing platforms and, if you are traveling in summer when it can be very hot, to return to the car park with the train.

Medjugorje

A very short distance from the Kravice waterfalls, there is a place that attracts pilgrims from all over Europe: Medjugorje.

Medjugorje, less than 40 years ago, was just a small village with a small Croatian population in the Herzegovina region.

In 1981, six children playing on a hill saw an apparition of the Virgin Mary. Since then, Medjugorje has been a city that welcomes millions of pilgrims every year although the Vatican has never made it official as a place of worship and no Pope has ever visited it.

Honestly, if you are not particularly religious, like me, I think you can skip it as a place to visit. But if you are curious, given the proximity to Kravice you can stop by and perhaps be impressed by the river of faithful who goes to this place every day.

In the center of the village is the large church with 100 seats. The church also has outdoor seating and confession booths in several European languages. In the garden behind the church there are statues and caves.

The most famous statue is the “Statue of the Risen Christ”. This bronze statue attracts pilgrims because it has been “crying” for a long time, meaning a liquid flows from different parts of the statue’s body.

Anyone who wants can climb Apparition Hill , where several visions of Marja have occurred since the original discovery by the children. The hill can be reached from the center of Medjugorje in about 15-20 minutes on foot , while the climb to the Mountain of the Cross takes about half an hour.

It is not difficult or particularly tiring, but the terrain is stony and steep: suitable shoes and a firm step are recommended.

Srebenica and the Potocari memorial site

Srebrenica is located approximately 80 km north-east of Sarajevo and approximately 5 km from the border with Serbia. Srebrenica is the site of the largest genocide in Europe since the Second World War.

The reason why people come to Srebrenica is mainly to visit the Potocari memorial site which is located about 5 kilometers north of the city, on the road 453 to Bratunac.

The memorial was built in memory of the Srebrenica massacre , or also Srebrenica genocide , committed in July 1995 by Serbs against Bosnian Muslims during the war in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

The site today is basically a cemetery, where approximately 6,000 victims of the atrocities are buried, who continue to be buried once identified, which is an ongoing process.

Most of the tombs have tall, thin tombstones made of white marble, while more recent tombs still have temporary green wooden signs indicating only the person’s name, place name, year of birth and common year. of death: 1995).

At the center of the complex, a memorial wall of names forms a semicircle around a sort of open-air mosque. The central memorial space used in burial and anniversary ceremonies (11 July).

To the right of the main entrance to the cemetery there is a small underground exhibition hall where a small but moving selection of photos were on display.

Across the road is the former car battery factory where many victims are said to have sought refuge. One building usually houses the coffins of new arrivals before their ceremonial burial in the cemetery.

To the south of the factory is the former United Nations building , where the Dutch protection forces failed to protect the Muslim population and refugees and which now lies abandoned.

One of the factory’s abandoned buildings, however, has been transformed into a Memorial Hall . This is by far the most impressive part of the site. Unfortunately, access is limited and is usually only open to groups.

You can visit Srebrenica on a tour from Sarejevo like this one which also includes a visit to the Genocide Museum or you can reach it independently but bear in mind that you may not have access to the memorial hall.

If you are interested in the history of the Srebenica genocide I recommend watching the film Quo vadis, Aida?

Jaice and the Plive waterfalls

Jajce is a small town in Bosnia-Herzegovina, central not only geographically but also culturally. Jajce is not yet a particularly popular tourist destination although UNESCO has recently invested in the renovation of the historic areas of the city.

Throughout Bosnia’s long history, Jajce has been home to medieval kings , Ottoman governors and a number of different ethnic groups, as well as being one of President Tito’s first communist strongholds .

One of the most unique features of Jajce is the Plive waterfall , unusually located right in the center of town. The falls are more than 20 meters high and are located where two rivers meet and converge.

There are several excellent viewing points, including the official platform which will get you very close.

Also be sure to visit the Jajce Fortress built around the mid-14th century, although numerous changes and additions have been made over the years.

The central castle sits atop a hill overlooking the city, and within the city there are various parts of old fortified walls and gates.

Bunker of Titus Konjic

Tito’s bunker, one of the greatest secrets of the former Yugoslavia. If you are passionate about bunkers (you will find lots of them in Albania) make sure you don’t miss this one hidden under the Zlatar mountain, with the deepest point 280 meters underground.

The bunker was built for 26 years in secret, with the main purpose of protecting Josip Broz Tito , the president of the former Yugoslavia, and 350 people of the political and state leadership in the event of a nuclear attack.

The ARK, an acronym for Atomic War Command , is made up of twelve blocks that had different purposes and which will take you to the 60s and 70s of the last century.

Access is only possible with a guided tour which must be booked in advance.

If you have a car you can drive to the meeting point in Konjic (they will give you directions but be aware that it is a bar on the corner).

To book you must call in advance. This is the site: Tito Bunker

If you don’t have transport and are staying in Sarajevo I recommend booking a tour with transport which costs €49 (also includes the entrance ticket) and lasts 4 and a half hours. Book Tito’s bunker tour from Sarajevo .

UNA National Park

Una National Park is one of the newest national parks in Bosnia and Herzegovina. It was established in 2008 to protect the pristine nature around the Una, Krka and Unac rivers.

Una National Park is located in the northwestern part of Bosnia, near the border with Croatia and the more famous Plitvice National Park.

It offers the same natural beauty, but without the tourist crowds, in a much larger area. With 19,800 hectares, it is now also one of the largest national parks in Bosnia.

You also won’t miss Štrbac buk , the largest waterfall in Una National Park, which is easily accessed from Orašac, and Martin Brod, a small village dating back to the 15th century.

The main attractions are the waterfalls, one of the most beautiful is Milančev buk , 54 meters high and surrounded by several natural pools, the water mills and the old wash houses called bucnice, now marketed as “ecological washing machines” due to their sustainability.

Also nearby is the Rmanj Monastery, an ancient Orthodox monastery dating back to the 15th century. There is no entrance fee, so you can come in and have a look.

Practical details for visiting the UNA National Park

The main entrance to the Una National Park is Gorjevac , ideal if you want to reach the Štrbački buk waterfalls directly.

The Martin Brod entrance is located near the Milančev Buk waterfalls.

However, one has different entrances which are as follows:

• Ingresso 1 – Gorjevac (Strbački buk)
• Ingresso 2 – Čukovi
• Ingresso 3 – Cells
• Ingresso 4 – Račić
• Ingresso 5 – Martin Brod (Milančev Buk)
• Entrance 6 – Lohovo

All visitors, except children aged 7 and under, must pay an entrance fee. The price of tickets depends on the entrances.

The price varies from 2 KM (if you enter the park from entrance 6) to 7 KM or €3.5 (entrances 1, 2 and 3).

Sutjeska National Park

One of the oldest and largest parks in Bosnia and Herzegovina , Sutjeska National Park is sure to amaze you with its wild nature.

Sutjeska National Park is home to Perucica , one of the last primeval forests in Europe. Furthermore, within the national park is the highest peak of Mount Maglic (2386 m), which is also the highest peak in the country. .

There are numerous activities to do in Sutjeska , in particular hiking, cycling and rafting.

In total there are nine hiking trails , of which the longest and most difficult is 22 kilometers long and can usually be covered in 8 hours walking at a moderate pace.
Be careful of the VI Prijevor – Maglić trail which although it is one of the shortest (only 2 km) is classified as difficult because it is actually an alpine trail. To climb it is necessary to have adequate technical equipment, helmet, harness, crampons and ice axe.

For those who wish to explore the park by bicycle there is a route dedicated to cyclists. The route starts in Tjentiste where you can also rent bikes if you don’t have your own. The route is 48 km long and ends at Lake Orlovac, where the hunting lodge and campsite are located.

Finally, if you like rafting here you can do it on the Tara river in the Sutjeska canyon. Rafting on the Tara is also possible in nearby PN Durmitor, just a 2-hour drive from Sutjeska.

The main entrance to NP Sutjeska is located in the northern part of the park, near the village of Tjentiste, where the park administration is based

A chair

Framed by the grassy and craggy ridges of Herzegovina’s Humina, Stolac is considered by many to be the most beautiful city in the country.

Among the places to visit be sure to see the historic center of Stolac , the Radimlj a necropolis – the best preserved stone cemetery of the medieval period and a UNESCO site, the megaliths of the Illyrian city of Daorson , the ruins of the Vidoški castle , the house of the Šarić family in Ottoman style built in 1734, Sultan Selim Mosque , ancient stone bridges, water mills on the Bregava River and Provalije waterfall – beautiful piece of nature on the Bregava River in the heart of the city.

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