Best known as the home of the colossal temples of Angkor Wat, and before the brutal Khmer Rouge era of the 1970s and later civil war, Cambodian history includes both humanity’s greatest artistic achievements and its most heinous acts. The history is what draws most travelers here, but this Southeast Asian nation has more to offer for those who stick around longer than a quick temple hop to Siem Reap. The coastline of white sandy beaches tempts every sun lazier. The jungle-fringed countryside caters to the more intrepid, and the bustling capital Phnom Penh envelops visitors in the frenetic impulses of modern Cambodian city life. Beyond the temples, and recovering from the horrors that rained on the country in the late 20th century, Cambodia is an emerging destination for Southeast Asia travel that manages to charm all who visit.
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1 Angkor Wat (Angkor Archaeological Park)
This temple city is Cambodia’s number one attraction. Accessed from the city of Siem Reap, the temples of the Angkorian era are so ambitious in scale and in the grandeur of their construction, that Angkor Wat is considered one of the world’s must-see ancient sites. Built between AD 802 and 1432, this was the largest city in the world during the Middle Ages and the enormous powerhouse of the Khmer kings who sought to outbid their predecessors in the beauty of their construction. As the city’s wooden dwellings were degraded and then decayed by the surrounding jungle, what remains today are only those mighty temples.
The temple of Angkor Wat itself, the world’s largest religious building, is only part of the site in total, and the vast circuit of temples deserves three days to explore if you want to understand the scope of the architectural achievements of the Angkorian period . For those short on time, the main highlights after Angkor Wat include the Ta Prohm Tree Roots Temple (which first found international fame as a location used in the film Tomb Raider), Bayon Temple for the 216 stone-carved faces, Angkor Thom , and Preah Khan .
2 Phnom Penh
Cambodia’s capital is the frenetic heartbeat of the nation; a city of chaotic streets buzzing with motorcycles and car horns that can be refreshing at first glance. Completely abandoned during the Khmer Rouge madness and left to wither and decay, Phnom Penh has returned to become one of Southeast Asia’s most dynamic cities. For visitors, this is Cambodia’s most cosmopolitan destination, with a cafe and restaurant scene unrivaled in the rest of the country. It is also home to a scattering of important historical sites that help unravel Cambodia’s modern and ancient history. The National Museum is home to a swag of Khmer sculpture that traces the nation’s history, from the pre-Angkorian era through to the phenomenal majesty of the god-kings of Angkor. The Royal Palace offers fine examples of traditional artistry, while Tuol Sleng Museum and the killing fields of Choeung Ek speak to the horror and brutality that the people of this country suffered under the rule of the Khmer Rouge.
Accommodation: Where to Stay in Phnom Penh: Best Areas and Hotels
3 Stranden van Sihanoukville
In Kompong Som province, Sihanoukville is a tale of two halves, with a bustling but boring central district and the coastline area with a lively seaside resort. The beaches here are Cambodia’s top destination for sand and sun holidays and are popular with both local and foreign tourists. There is something here for every kind of beachgoer. Sokha Beach and Independence Beach boast of luxury hotels. fragile Ochheuteal Beach and the Serendipity Beach area are the most popular sandy beaches and in recent years have become one of the backpacker areas of Southeast Asia. For a much quieter scene, just to the south is Otres Beach with beach huts perched right on the sand, a stream of stylish boutique hotels and some up-and-coming restaurants.
Accommodation: Where to Stay in Sihanoukville
4 Ratanakiri
This is inland Cambodia and the region’s endless red dirt roads, leading to ethnic minority villages, are an intrepid traveler’s delight. For those with an adventurous streak, the province is home to some of Cambodia’s best trekking, from gibbon spotting at Veun Sai-Siem Pang Conservation Area , where overnight drives involve sleeping in hammocks and getting up early to see waved gibbons to follow, walking into Virachey National Park , home to elephants, tigers and sun bears. There are also more relaxing options. The emerald waters of Yeak Lom Crater Lake just outside Ban Lung town are a tranquil swimming spot, while the waterfalls of Chaa Ong and Ka Tieng are fun diversions that offer more chances to get wet. Ratanakiri is a nature-filled respite for travelers suffering from temple fatigue.
5 Prasat Preah Vihear
The temples of Angkor Wat may get all the glory, but Prasat Preah Vihear wins the prize for most dramatic location. Prasat Preah Vihear sits atop the Dangrek Mountains, on a slope with dizzying views of the Cambodian floodplains. It is a monumental temple complex with intricately carved pavilions connected by long pathways, originally built to honor the god Shiva.
The temple sits snugly against the border with Thailand and has traditionally been a point of contention between the two nations, both of which consider it their own. The International Court of Justice ruled in favor of Cambodia in 2013, leading to border disputes that flared up between 2008 and 2011. Tensions have subsided in recent years, meaning this UNESCO World Heritage Site can reclaim its rightful role on the tourist trail. Access is from Sra Em, although most visitors take a day trip from Siem Reap (200 kilometers south).
6 Battambang
The countryside of rice fields and small villages surrounding the northwest city of Battambang has some of the most tranquil rural landscapes in Cambodia, and the area is also home to abundant historical resources. All this has made the city itself a popular destination on traveling routes. For history buffs, the temples of Phnom Sampeau , Phnom Banan , and Wat Ek Phnom are all within daylight distance, while the famous Bamboo – a single-line railway where “carriages” made from a platform of wood and bamboo travel between the eastern bank of Battambang and the tiny village of O Srav – one of the most popular is activities for visitors. Battambang itself is a rather sleepy city compared to the hustle and bustle of the capital, with a central district full of colonial buildings. For those who found the hectic buzz of Phnom Penh a bit too much to handle, Battambang is a well-connected city to use as a base.
Accommodation: Where to Stay in Battambang
7 Koh Rong Samloem
Just off Cambodia’s southern coast are a scattering of islands that are every bit as beautiful as their Thai counterparts to the west, but much less visited. Compared to the now highly developed islands of Koh Samui and Phuket, Cambodia’s islands are a slice of laid-back tropical bliss, where sun and sand take center stage and the big resorts have yet to make their mark. Of all the islands, Koh Rong Samloem is one of the most beautiful with the long, sandy Saracen Bay home to a dozen beach hut resorts that offer a welcome respite from the world. This is really about hammock time, but there are plenty of diving activities for the active ones. You can access these islands from Sihanoukville.
Accommodation: Where to Stay in Koh Rong Samloem
8 Kampot
The relaxed river town of Kampot has plenty of the atmosphere of yesteryear. The compact central district is a pleasure to stroll through; full of surviving shop architecture, some of which has been carefully restored. Kampot’s charm lies in its exceptionally laid-back atmosphere, and many a traveler finds themselves staying here longer than they expected, succumbing to its easy pace. For active people, this is also an excellent base to discover the surrounding sights in the south. The old French summer getaway of Bokor Hill Station , with its abandoned church and eerie, empty shell of a once grand hotel, is an easy day trip from the city, as are the limestone caves of Phnom Chhnork and Phnom Sorsia , both with ancient temples inside.
Accommodation: Where to Stay in Kampot
9 Tonle Sap Lake
Tonlé Sap is Cambodia’s most important waterway and the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia. In addition to being an important food source and an indispensable tool for Cambodian irrigation, the lake itself is home to 170 floating villages that rely on fishing for their livelihoods, with houses built right on the water. The houses, shops, churches, schools and temples of these villages are built on rustic buoy foundations of beaten together barrels and bamboo, and all transport is by boat. They are a fascinating place to spend a day exploring. One of the most interesting is the sprawling village of Kompong Luong , near the town of Pursat on the west coast of Tonlé Sap, although the most popular village to visit is Chong Kneas near Siem Reap.
10 Kratie
If you’re here for the full Mekong experience, you’ve come to the right place. Spread across the banks of the mighty Mekong, Kratie has become a major destination for travelers for its dolphin watching tours. The endangered Irrawaddy dolphins are endemic to the Mekong and environmental measures have now been introduced to try to help their declining numbers. Tourism has played a good role in protecting the dolphins by providing an alternative economy to fishing. To see the dolphins, head to Kampi, just north of Kratie, where numerous boat trips are available.
Accommodation: where to stay in Kratie
11 Partner Prei Kuk
This pre-Angkorian temple site dates back to the early 7th century when it was the capital of the Upper Chenla Empire. More than 100 stone temples dedicated to various Hindu gods sit in the forest here, many half-swallowed by giant sequoia roots. Archaeologically the site is of great importance, with some of the oldest surviving buildings in Cambodia, but you don’t have to be an archeology buff to appreciate the ethereal beauty of this tree-wrapped site. The main temples in the area are found at Prasat Sambor , Prasat Tao , and Prasat Yeay Peau , all of which have remarkably clear carvings on their temple walls and plenty of ethereal atmosphere provided by the twisting of tree trunks and winding vines. You have access to Sambor Prei Kuk from Kompong Thom.
12 Banteay Chhmar
For a touch of Indiana Jones-esque temple discovery, you can’t beat Banteay Chhmar. This gigantic temple complex sits consumed by the surrounding jungle in Cambodia’s lonely northwest, offering the perfect opportunity to discover the highlights without the crowds. It was built by the 12th century Angkorian king Jayavarman VII and the remarkable stone reliefs along its walls are some of the most intricately detailed you will see in the country. In particular, the spectacular bas-reliefs depicting Avalokitesvara on the south wall and the dazzling array of battle scenes depicted on the eastern walls are excellent examples of the artistry of the Angkor era.
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